Clouds Looming

December 28, 2012

The weather in Japan today is a perfect reflection of my mood - cold, rainy, somber. Clouds looming over an otherwise fantastic day.

I woke up at 5:30am to a text message from my mother saying that my grandfather was moved to hospice, and I couldn't go back to sleep. Andrew (the Brit) and I had made plans to go to Nara at 8am, so I called my mom, went on the computer, and packed. We grabbed breakfast and then I checked out of the hostel, the made our way to the train station.

Our first stop was Fushimi-Inari, where there is a famous tunnel of orange torii lined in a row. Andrew had just been there, but was willing to stop with me since it was on the way to Nara. Unlike most major attractions, this one was definitely not disappointing. We cleansed our hands, and then walked around, taking photos and chatting.

On our way back to the train station, we stopped for some rice crackers. While waiting for the train, I taught Andrew the basics of using his DSLR camera. Hopefully he got it!

When we arrived in Nara, I stored my large backpack in a locker at the station, we grabbed some coffee au lair in the hot fridge at a supermarket, and began towards Todai-ji. I called my mom as we started walking and got the news that an hour earlier, my grandfather had passed peacefully. We thought it would happen while I was away, and discussed that I wasn't going to come home for the funeral. I feel terrible about it, but I think it's the right decision. I just wish I could be there for my mom.

Andrew - It must have been a bit awkward for you to be there with me when I got the news, but you were great about it. Thank you for helping keep my spirits up and for being there, even though we had known each other for less than 24 hours by then. You helped keep things positive, and I'm so grateful for that.

Not but five minutes after I got the news, we had found the Five-Storey Pagoda, and fed some of Nara's famous deer. When we ran out of food, the deer still came at us, and one chased us as we tried to get away.

Andrew sheepishly feeding the deer 

We passed a million deer and some museum with beautiful Japanese colonial architecture. The rainy walk to Todai-ji was worth it to see the Daibutsu - the world's largest bronze statue of the Buddha. It was an incredible and awe-inspiring sight. Beautiful. It was flanked on either side by equally stunning statues of guardians. Just before we left, Martin (one of the Germans from the night before) came over to say hello. He joined us for lunch - cuddle fish okonomiyaki (cabbage omelette type thing) and pork yaki-udon - at a restaurant filled with some sort of Japanese school team, who all stared at us as we walked in. Getting in out of the cold and rain was much needed, and the food was delicious.

Derp 

Daibutsu (Big Buddha) 

The whole that this woman is going through is the size of one of the Daibutsu nostrils

If you rub this statue and then rub a part of your body that is ailing, your suffering will be cured 

Martin 

Andrew

Martin bid us farewell, and we decided to get more food at another restaurant down the road - I got tempura and udon, Andrew got tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet) and udon.

Back at the train station, I got my bag, gave Andrew a hug (he was headed back to Kyoto), and boarded a train to Osaka. Andrew will be coming to Osaka on the 30th and we have plans to explore Osaka-jo (the castle), Osaka Aquarium, the street food, and maybe even pachinko (Japanese gambling type game). Again, Andrew was instrumental in providing an incredible day, despite the terrible news. He's definitely one of the most awesome guys I've met traveling!

I pulled into Fukushima station (just one before Osaka), and followed the directions to my hostel - J-Hoppers. After putting my stuff down, I met an Aussie named Rachel, who was also traveling alone. We chatted for awhile, and then she ran out to get beer for the party the hostel was throwing. I headed down shortly thereafter, and then joined the party. There was so much beer, and the small lounge area was packed with people from all over. I chatted with Rachel, Mitch (British guy), Noriko (Japanese girl), Mickey (Malaysian girl), Pauliina (Finnish girl), a guy from Missouri, a guy from Denver, and a girl from Tehran. I also spoke with some Japanese guy, who was a kabuki hair dresser, in Japanese. He made me call him 素敵なお祖父さま (cool uncle), and apologized for Pearl Harbor. Interesting guy.

Cleaning staff at the hostel 

Cool uncle 

This guy came back after getting sh*t-faced. Drunk Japanese men are hilarious

The party was just what I needed to keep my mind off of things.

RIP Samuel Schwartz. You were, and are loved, and you will always be missed.

Portrait of my grandfather taken in Delray Beach, Florida on December 27, 2011. Exactly one year before he died.

A Walk to Remember

December 27, 2012

My morning started with free coffee at the hostel, followed by a train trip to Arashiyama to see the bamboo groves and Tenryu-ji (dragon temple), which was closed except for the gardens. The bamboo grove was as cool as I expected, and after about 100 photos, I made my way back to the train station via back roads. I watned to get lunch, so I stopped into a small restaurant. A quick look at their menu and I said, 「ええーちょっと高いね。すみません。」("Uhh, it's a little expensive. Excuse me.") They started cracking up, and I bid them adieu. I settled for a convenience store by the station, and got dumplings and onigiri. Even convenience store food is better here.

As I was taking this photo, I could hear someone playing a traditional Japanese flute in the background

On my way back, I got on the wrong train and got off at the next stop. Unfortunately, the only way to get on the other side was to leave and reenter. I walked through the closed gate and went to the other side where there was a grumpy looking old ticket man reading the newspaper. 「すみません。英語が話せますか。」("Excuse me. Can you speak English?") He replied in a very raspy old Japanese man voice, 「話せません！」("I cannot."), and went back to reading his paper. When I switched into Japanese he looked a little surprised. I told him that I got on the wrong train, was coming from Arashiyama, and wanted to get on the next one headed toward Kawaramachi. He took my ticket, stamped it and motioned for me to pass through the gate. When I made it back, I stopped at the electronic store to find an adapter for my three pronged computer cord, but they didn't have one, so I went back to the hostel to ask for directions to Kinkaku-ji (the famed Golden Pavilion).

I got off at the wrong Kinkaku-ji stop, but it was only a block away, so it wasn't really a problem. The stop that I did get off at happened to be right in front of a Catholic Church, so I stopped in to check it out.

Coolest tabernacle ever

Kinkaku-ji was breathtaking. I really don't know what more to say about it. Near the end of the complex, I lit two candles - one in hopes of finding employment, the other on behalf of my friend's mom who is currently suffering from cancer.

From Kinkaku-ji, I took the bus to Ginkaku-ji (silver temple), but they were just about to close so I went for a bowl of ramen instead. I swear to god this ramen was made with crack (and by that I mean pork fat), as it was the greatest tasting thing I've ever had.

As the sun was setting, I walked down the Path of Philosophy - a beautiful path along a stream. On my way through, I glanced at some statues in front of a house, and next to a statue of this ubiquitous raccoon dog thing, I swear I saw a statue of the Mother Mary. I did a double take, but when I looked back it was gone. Weird.

Along the way, I met a crazy cat lady who spoke in a constantly fluctuating voice. She kept repeating,「かわいい。かわいいね〜〜。」("Cute. Aren't they cute!") We chatted for a bit through my broken Japanese, and I moved on.

It was dark by the time I went into a small shop for directions on how to get back, but she told me to go left instead of right at the next corner, and I wound up walking along a highway. A helpful mechanic showed me where we were on a map, and I began to backtrack. Alone on a dark highway, I was incredibly paranoid... Constantly turning back, every sound making me jump. But Japan is so safe that I really had nothing to worry about. I found one of the subway lines (each city has several different lines, including privately owned ones), and asked the ticket guy to help me find a station close to my hostel. Seriously though, thank god I know Japanese. As the train pulled in, a ridiculous traditional Japanese chime rang to indicate it's arrival. I got off at a part of town that I had been at the night before, so I was able to find breathe a sigh of relief and trek back to my hostel. I walked through the shopping arcade, got some coffee, stopped in some bizarre little shops, and picked up fried chicken meat, fried chicken skin, and Sapporo beer.

I felt like a boss. Buddum ching.

Back at the hostel, I went to the lounge and surfed the web while listening in slightly to the conversation next to me between two German girls, a Bulgarian girl, and a British guy (Andrew). I chimed in a few times, and then made my way into the conversation. We all started chatting - they're super cool. The three girls are studying abroad in Japan and the guy is teaching English in Seoul, Korea.

A few others joined in our conversation - a German guy, two Dutch guys, and later another German guy. We talked about everything - including U.S. politics and the recent Newtown massacre. Everyone agreed that the U.S. needs stricter gun laws, and that what we have now is absolutely abhorrent.

Andrew and I went out for more beer - Kirin Lager this time - and after finishing up, we all headed to bed.

Tokyo to Kyoto

December 26, 2012

After a restless night's sleep, I finally got myself out of bed at 7am, took a much needed shower, took advantage of the complementary coffee and toast in the guest house, and made an exciting discovery: heated toilet seats. I think I've found my birthday present to myself!

I rearranged my things - trying to find the right spot for everything and redistributing items between my bags. When traveling, it's really helpful to properly divvy things up and place your most important items in logical spots. Knowing where everything is is really necessary so that you don't fumble through your shit when you're on-the-go and so that you know you haven't lost anything. I always try to keep my stuff easily accessible, but not easily pickpocketable.

The Japan Rail booking office at the Ikebukuro station didn't open for an hour after I arrived, so I grabbed a ブレンドコーヒー (blended coffee) and did some reading. I booked all my train travel in Japinglish and apologized for holding up the line. That Japanese granny behind me looked none too pleased. Unfortunately, I misunderstood the ticketing lady and thought my train left Ikebukuro at 11:03, and not from Tokyo. Thinking that I had plenty of time, I went for some food at another little place where you order on a machine. I was a little confused at how to operate it, but I made out 「すすめ」(recommendation), and ordered that. It turns out that I ordered my favorite Sichuan (Chinese) dish: mapo tofu. It came with a side of miso soup and salad. Nom.

I didn't realize my time mix up until I went to board the Yamanote line to Tokyo, but I was able to get the next train once I arrived with minimal wait time. I was able to tell the woman that I had missed my train and wanted to get on the next one to Kyoto, and ask where the train is - entirely in Japanese. AND I could understand her responses. :-D

The train was pleasant, as expected.

When I arrived in Kyoto, I followed the instructions on how to get to my hostel, as given in their email. This got me to the nearest subway station, but I only knew it was a "ten minute walk" from there. I stopped one woman for help, who spoke English very well, but had to stop another woman after a bit. This woman spoke nearly zero English, but helped me find my hostel. Literally, she walked around with me, asking people for help. The Japanese are SOOO nice. When we finally found it, she congratulated me and said it was a miracle. "Mirukaru desu ne!" Hai, mirukaru desu.

Checked in, I went down to the lobby to meet up with a friend from GW, Danny Wein, who was on his way back to Tokyo, but made a pitstop in Kyoto to see me. We had lunch and beer and chatted. It was quite nice, especially after speaking Japinglish for 24 hours.

Some Japanese sweet that Danny brought from the Tokyo station 

Karaage (fried chicken) 

Danny

Once he parted, I rested for a bit and then went to explore the city. I first went to Pontcho Street, a quaint little street with awesome alleyways, paper lanterns, and a serious old timey feel.

Next I went to Gion and Yasaka Shrine.

Then to Shinkyogoku and Teramachi shopping streets. Where I bought nothing but delicious ramen with miso dipping sauce.

Now I'm back in the hostel, relaxing and typing this up. I'm exhausted.