Pages From My Passport: Clouds Looming

December 28, 2012

The weather in Japan today is a perfect reflection of my mood - cold, rainy, somber. Clouds looming over an otherwise fantastic day.

I woke up at 5:30am to a text message from my mother saying that my grandfather was moved to hospice, and I couldn't go back to sleep. Andrew (the Brit) and I had made plans to go to Nara at 8am, so I called my mom, went on the computer, and packed. We grabbed breakfast and then I checked out of the hostel, the made our way to the train station.

Our first stop was Fushimi-Inari, where there is a famous tunnel of orange torii lined in a row. Andrew had just been there, but was willing to stop with me since it was on the way to Nara. Unlike most major attractions, this one was definitely not disappointing. We cleansed our hands, and then walked around, taking photos and chatting.

On our way back to the train station, we stopped for some rice crackers. While waiting for the train, I taught Andrew the basics of using his DSLR camera. Hopefully he got it!

When we arrived in Nara, I stored my large backpack in a locker at the station, we grabbed some coffee au lair in the hot fridge at a supermarket, and began towards Todai-ji. I called my mom as we started walking and got the news that an hour earlier, my grandfather had passed peacefully. We thought it would happen while I was away, and discussed that I wasn't going to come home for the funeral. I feel terrible about it, but I think it's the right decision. I just wish I could be there for my mom.

Andrew - It must have been a bit awkward for you to be there with me when I got the news, but you were great about it. Thank you for helping keep my spirits up and for being there, even though we had known each other for less than 24 hours by then. You helped keep things positive, and I'm so grateful for that.

Not but five minutes after I got the news, we had found the Five-Storey Pagoda, and fed some of Nara's famous deer. When we ran out of food, the deer still came at us, and one chased us as we tried to get away.

Andrew sheepishly feeding the deer

We passed a million deer and some museum with beautiful Japanese colonial architecture. The rainy walk to Todai-ji was worth it to see the Daibutsu - the world's largest bronze statue of the Buddha. It was an incredible and awe-inspiring sight. Beautiful. It was flanked on either side by equally stunning statues of guardians. Just before we left, Martin (one of the Germans from the night before) came over to say hello. He joined us for lunch - cuddle fish okonomiyaki (cabbage omelette type thing) and pork yaki-udon - at a restaurant filled with some sort of Japanese school team, who all stared at us as we walked in. Getting in out of the cold and rain was much needed, and the food was delicious.

Derp

Daibutsu (Big Buddha)

The whole that this woman is going through is the size of one of the Daibutsu nostrils

If you rub this statue and then rub a part of your body that is ailing, your suffering will be cured

Martin

Andrew

Martin bid us farewell, and we decided to get more food at another restaurant down the road - I got tempura and udon, Andrew got tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet) and udon.

Back at the train station, I got my bag, gave Andrew a hug (he was headed back to Kyoto), and boarded a train to Osaka. Andrew will be coming to Osaka on the 30th and we have plans to explore Osaka-jo (the castle), Osaka Aquarium, the street food, and maybe even pachinko (Japanese gambling type game). Again, Andrew was instrumental in providing an incredible day, despite the terrible news. He's definitely one of the most awesome guys I've met traveling!

I pulled into Fukushima station (just one before Osaka), and followed the directions to my hostel - J-Hoppers. After putting my stuff down, I met an Aussie named Rachel, who was also traveling alone. We chatted for awhile, and then she ran out to get beer for the party the hostel was throwing. I headed down shortly thereafter, and then joined the party. There was so much beer, and the small lounge area was packed with people from all over. I chatted with Rachel, Mitch (British guy), Noriko (Japanese girl), Mickey (Malaysian girl), Pauliina (Finnish girl), a guy from Missouri, a guy from Denver, and a girl from Tehran. I also spoke with some Japanese guy, who was a kabuki hair dresser, in Japanese. He made me call him 素敵なお祖父さま (cool uncle), and apologized for Pearl Harbor. Interesting guy.