On the train from Madrid to Paris, we were joined in our compartment by Fernando (late twenties) and Father Maximiliano (early thirties) from Argentina. We chatted for hours first in English, then in Spanish (for a full hour), then in Spanglish for the remainder of the trip. Maximiliano showed us his new crusader helmet that he purchased for the whopping sum of one hundred euro... We tried it on and took pictures. They were a lot of fun and I'm so happy to have met them.
From Paris Austerlitz, we rushed our asses off to Paris Est, made our train to Karlsruhe, and then went to Frankfurt. Once in Frankfurt, we took a bus to the Holiday Inn Express. The building is snazzy, the staff incredibly friendly and helpful, and the room, perfectly comfortable to prepare us for the end of the journey.
Once settled, we went out to find a place to eat. We celebrated my 100th day and reminisced about Spain from the inside of a rundown, shady, and empty bar that managed to whip up some delicious schnitzel with mushrooms and fries. As was necessary, a delicious German beer accompanied the meal.
This trip has been unbelievable and exhausting. It was the perfect length. I'm ready for home, but haven't yet had a day that I didn't enjoy!
The journey home starts tomorrow afternoon!
Monday, August 22, 2011
Adios Madrid
*Written 21 August*
We just got onto the train from Madrid Chamartin to Paris Austerlitz (from there we go Paris Est to Karlsruhe to Frankfurt). Santiago, Ana, Ana, Marta, Teresa, Jaime, Javier, Ines, Juan, Antonio, Paloma, Alvaro, Javier, and Antonio escorted us to our train terminal as we said our teary-eyed goodbyes.
Over the last week, both Damian and I gained a new family - nuestra familia espanola (sorry for the lack of accents, I don't know how to do that on Damian's computer). The Olmedo/Chiva family went above and beyond the call of hospitality - we didn't feel like guests, we left like hijos. This train ride is the first time we've been more than a hundred feet from our hosts. We spent all of our WYD playing, exploring, talking, laughing, eating, drinking, learning, teaching, and living with the Pozuelo crew (Pozuelo is the name of the suburb that they lived in). I wouldn't exchange our experience for the world.
Santiago, his family, and his friends are some of the most outstanding people I have ever met. I love them, all of them, like I love my own family because that's what they have become.
I already miss Juan's pinches and bites, Princesa Ines' constant demands to be picked up, Javier's suave and cool, Jaime, el diablio, and his oft cries of "It wasn't me" (.......it always was); and Teresa, Marta, and Ana's exceptional maturity, politeness, and angelic demeanor. I miss Santiago's stubbornness, intense plans, happiness, and love of good food, Mahou, and candles. I miss Ana's cooking, motherliness, and "que sera sera" attitude. I miss chatting with Antonio, Paloma's gazpacho and utter warmness, and the polite, intelligent, and always smiling Alvaro, Javier, and Antonio. I also miss everyone thinking that their English was awful when it was always fantastic.
I miss Ana's brother, Miguel, his wife, and their kids who were all more than happy to welcome and talk to us.
I already miss everyone.
Muchas gracias por todo. I honestly cannot thank you all enough for everything, literally everything!
Until next time! (Alvaro, you better visit us when you're in DC!)
Muchisima gracias.
VIVA!
Madrid Highlights (Days 2-4)
So Madrid was a blur of sheer perfection and I was so tired by the end of every jam packed day that I didn't write down everything we did... So here is my attempt at covering as much of the fun as I can recall (photos to come in a later post).
- Madrid Austrias, the old section, at night.
- Palais Real y la Catedral
- Several beautiful churches whose names I never caught
- TAPAS!!! Spanish omelette, potato in some amazing sauce, mushrooms and garlic, grilled peppers, and veal (holy cow! buddumching)
- Paella con pollo y pescado
- Mahou Original, Sin, y Mixta (gracias Santi!)
- Antonio, Paloma, Alvaro, Javier, y Antonio (my second Spanish family)
- Chatting with Antonio, a Colonel in the Spanish army who worked for NATO in Norfolk
- Paloma's gazpacho
- Every meal prepared by Ana
- Tomatoes!
- Jamon y melon
- Toy Story 3, and holding back tears
- El camino CON Santiago
- All the different areas of Madrid that I also never found out the names of
- Stations of the Cross with Santi, Antonio, and their families
- Seeing the Pope in his Papamobile
- Seeing the Popemobile without the Pope... twice
- Trying to get into Cuatro Vientos twice and failing
- Mass with the Pope from right outside the gate with about 500,000 others (approx 1.5 million inside)
- Reading Spanish stories to the kids
- Seeing all the flags at Cuatro Vientos
- Moet Brut Champagne
- Dinners at 1 or 2 AM
- Danone Mousse
- Los aperitivos
- Ana's brother, his wife, and their children
- LA PISCINA!
- Jamming out in the car with the kids
La Primera Dia de JMJ
In Spanish, World Youth Day is called la Jornada Mundial de la Juventud (the World Journey of the Youth), and the entirety of Madrid is excited with anticipation for the two million pilgrims piling in and hundreds of activities set up for the week.
Our first day was spent in an attempt to sign in and get our credentials. We first went to Santiago's church, where we were told to go to another place, where we were told to go to the airport, where we were told to go elsewhere, which finally had it. We spent an hour running around and another five hours in line waiting to get checked in. They didn't have any bags left, so we would have to go back to Santiago's church (which he did for us the next day).
When we got back, we jumped in the pool, ate, and then quickly got ready for Mass in the centre of town. The mass was chaotic, as they were doing construction for future events that blocked the screens set up so everyone could see the altar. Afterward, we walked around the main square with the family until everyone was too tired to continue. We then headed back, ate, and went to sleep.
Our first day was spent in an attempt to sign in and get our credentials. We first went to Santiago's church, where we were told to go to another place, where we were told to go to the airport, where we were told to go elsewhere, which finally had it. We spent an hour running around and another five hours in line waiting to get checked in. They didn't have any bags left, so we would have to go back to Santiago's church (which he did for us the next day).
When we got back, we jumped in the pool, ate, and then quickly got ready for Mass in the centre of town. The mass was chaotic, as they were doing construction for future events that blocked the screens set up so everyone could see the altar. Afterward, we walked around the main square with the family until everyone was too tired to continue. We then headed back, ate, and went to sleep.
Damian y Jaime con la bandera del Vaticano.
Ines con la bandera de los Estados Unidos.
The Way to Madrid
We left Lourdes for Dax at 9:15 AM on 15 August, hoping that by the time we made it to Irun, a miracle would take the form of a means of getting to Madrid. Int he train station, we met a group from Kentucky and Tennessee, led by an overly chatty but friendly middle aged priest.
Upon our arrival on the border, we were greeted by a closed-for-siesta train ticket booth, so we ran right to the pilgrim-filled bus line. By a rare stroke of good fortune, we were able to get tickets to Bilbao and then to Madrid. Before we left, we grabbed lunch at a little sandwich shop (we're so sick of sandwiches). As we were leaving, the twenty-something year old who took our orders called us over and handed us each a miraculous medal - one with Mary and the other with the Sacred Heart of Jesus. The random act of kindness left me beaming, and I decided that I would wear the medal as a constant reminder to engage in similar random acts of kindness.
Our bus departed promptly on time, was super comfortable, and had an in-transit attendant, who brought us water and headphones. The train from Bilbao to Madrid was equally timely, and brought us into la Avenida de las Americas at 9:45 PM. We wandered around the station trying to find Santiago, our host father, whom we eventually found with three of us seven children.
They brought us to their home in a Mercedes van that seats nine (the size of their family). We were showed to our own bedroom, where we promptly set up our new home for the week, and then went downstairs for a late and delicious dinner in their yard by the swimming pool.
Santiago and his wife Ana are beyond accommodating and friendly. Their seven children - Ana, Marta, Teresa, Ines, Jaime, Javiar, and Juan - are exceptionally well-behaved. We are incredibly lucky to be received by such a loving family, and we are so excited to be staying with them.
Upon our arrival on the border, we were greeted by a closed-for-siesta train ticket booth, so we ran right to the pilgrim-filled bus line. By a rare stroke of good fortune, we were able to get tickets to Bilbao and then to Madrid. Before we left, we grabbed lunch at a little sandwich shop (we're so sick of sandwiches). As we were leaving, the twenty-something year old who took our orders called us over and handed us each a miraculous medal - one with Mary and the other with the Sacred Heart of Jesus. The random act of kindness left me beaming, and I decided that I would wear the medal as a constant reminder to engage in similar random acts of kindness.
Our bus departed promptly on time, was super comfortable, and had an in-transit attendant, who brought us water and headphones. The train from Bilbao to Madrid was equally timely, and brought us into la Avenida de las Americas at 9:45 PM. We wandered around the station trying to find Santiago, our host father, whom we eventually found with three of us seven children.
They brought us to their home in a Mercedes van that seats nine (the size of their family). We were showed to our own bedroom, where we promptly set up our new home for the week, and then went downstairs for a late and delicious dinner in their yard by the swimming pool.
Santiago and his wife Ana are beyond accommodating and friendly. Their seven children - Ana, Marta, Teresa, Ines, Jaime, Javiar, and Juan - are exceptionally well-behaved. We are incredibly lucky to be received by such a loving family, and we are so excited to be staying with them.
Lourdes
The Thirteenth was mostly spent in traveling to Lourdes, where we arrived sans hotel reservations at about 11:15 PM. We wandered from hotel to hotel to hotel which were all "complet" (full), until our tenth or so try... it was a busy weekend for them because of World Youth Day. We stayed at a shady rundown joint operated by a friendly no-English-speaking older gentleman. After dropping our stuff in the room, we decided to go on a walk to the Grotto.
Unbeknownst to us, visiting the Grotto at night is the perfect time to go - the line is infinitely shorter and the temperature cooler. While there, we got some holy water, met two girls from Colorado, visited the well and altar, and lit candles to add to the display left by countless pilgrims before us.
The next day, we moved to St. Jean Baptiste, run by the sweetest family in Lourdes. We visited the Basilica, but weren't able to do the Lourdes water bath because of a several hours long line. Perhaps we would have waited, but we had to deal with train ticket issues.
Raileurope, the company through which we booked our train tickets, made a severe error with our reservations. Our plan to get to Madrid was to leave on 15 August from Lourdes to Dax to Irun (the border) to Valladolid Campo to Madrid, and that's what we booked. Our so we thought. Luckily, Damian noticed that from Irun to Valladolid Campo to Madrid was booked for 7 September (their fault, not mine). I had to call Raileurope several times over the last week, and talked to the ticketing people in Paris, but the company couldn't send me the paper tickets and don't do e-tickets, and the train station said everything was booked for days. The suggested option was to go from Lourdes to Dax to Irun, and then hope there are openings on either the train or bus, but we were nervous about doing that. The only other option we could think of was to find other English speaking groups with extra room on their buses. We spoke to a group from Philly, Chicago, and Texas - all of whom led us on, made us wait for hours, only to decline us citing liabilities. So much for Christian charity. I doubt Jesus ever cared about liabilities. Three groups left us without hope...
Disappointed, the only thing that managed to cheer us up was the hotel's puppy, whom we named Mr. Scruffums. Damian was also put in a better mood after conversing in ASL with a group of deaf French people.
We went to bed nervous about how/when/if we would get to Madrid, made more difficult by the need to inform our host family of our arrival information.
What a stressful day... we didn't even really get to capitalize on all Lourdes had to offer, although we did see enough - including witnessing a candle light vigil and late night Grotto mass.
On a totally random note, I feel like I should mention how incredibly blown away I have been by how kind the French are. I've heard so many horror stories about visiting France, but our experience was totally different. Perhaps our sad attempts at speaking French, asking in French if someone speaks English, and being extremely polite was all it takes to win over their hearts. I apologize to the French for always assuming that to some degree most of y'all would be really rude to us.
Unbeknownst to us, visiting the Grotto at night is the perfect time to go - the line is infinitely shorter and the temperature cooler. While there, we got some holy water, met two girls from Colorado, visited the well and altar, and lit candles to add to the display left by countless pilgrims before us.
The next day, we moved to St. Jean Baptiste, run by the sweetest family in Lourdes. We visited the Basilica, but weren't able to do the Lourdes water bath because of a several hours long line. Perhaps we would have waited, but we had to deal with train ticket issues.
Raileurope, the company through which we booked our train tickets, made a severe error with our reservations. Our plan to get to Madrid was to leave on 15 August from Lourdes to Dax to Irun (the border) to Valladolid Campo to Madrid, and that's what we booked. Our so we thought. Luckily, Damian noticed that from Irun to Valladolid Campo to Madrid was booked for 7 September (their fault, not mine). I had to call Raileurope several times over the last week, and talked to the ticketing people in Paris, but the company couldn't send me the paper tickets and don't do e-tickets, and the train station said everything was booked for days. The suggested option was to go from Lourdes to Dax to Irun, and then hope there are openings on either the train or bus, but we were nervous about doing that. The only other option we could think of was to find other English speaking groups with extra room on their buses. We spoke to a group from Philly, Chicago, and Texas - all of whom led us on, made us wait for hours, only to decline us citing liabilities. So much for Christian charity. I doubt Jesus ever cared about liabilities. Three groups left us without hope...
Disappointed, the only thing that managed to cheer us up was the hotel's puppy, whom we named Mr. Scruffums. Damian was also put in a better mood after conversing in ASL with a group of deaf French people.
We went to bed nervous about how/when/if we would get to Madrid, made more difficult by the need to inform our host family of our arrival information.
What a stressful day... we didn't even really get to capitalize on all Lourdes had to offer, although we did see enough - including witnessing a candle light vigil and late night Grotto mass.
On a totally random note, I feel like I should mention how incredibly blown away I have been by how kind the French are. I've heard so many horror stories about visiting France, but our experience was totally different. Perhaps our sad attempts at speaking French, asking in French if someone speaks English, and being extremely polite was all it takes to win over their hearts. I apologize to the French for always assuming that to some degree most of y'all would be really rude to us.
Where in the World is Captain America: The Louvre, Paris, France
Captain America searching for Da Vinci's clues at the Louvre in Paris, France.
Where in the World is Captain America: Notre Dame, Paris, France
Captain America hunting for hunchbacks and gargoyles at Notre Dame in Paris, France.
Where in the World is Captain America: Eiffel Tower, Paris, France
Captain America keeping tourists safe from gypsies, tramps, and thieves in front of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, France.
Where in the World is Captain America: Arc d'Triomphe, Paris, France
Captain America celebrating America being better than France at the Arc d'Triomphe in Paris, France.
Saturday, August 20, 2011
Paris Day 3
Our third day in Paris, 12 August, was a little calmer than the previous day, but we still managed to fit in quite a bit.
The first stop of the day, after croissants of course, was Notre Dame Cathedral. Outside was a huge British WYD group evangilizing and singing "Jesus Christo, Alleluia" for which another Brazilian group joined them. The cathedral itself was rather underwhelming in comparison to some lesser known churches... and I didn't see any hunchbacks! =(
From Notre Dame, we went to the utterly exceptional and intricate St. Etienne, situated in the shadows of the Pantheon. After some time there, we went to the larger Capitol building-esque Pantheon, which houses some incredibly famous and influential persons, but when faced with a five euro entry fee each, we chose not to bother. Our goal for France was to not spend money on entrance fees. Instead of dropping ten euro to see a building, we went to a supermarket to do what I do best... eat. We spent the same amount as the entrance fee would have been on olives for Damian, cherry tomatoes for me, mozarella, baguette, and a cheap bottle of Bordeaux. We sat in a park next to two homeless men (our only seating option) and ate, feeling guilty and awkward with every delicious bite.
We then made our way to the famous Louvre, for which we got in for free - yay being under twenty-six! Since Damian and I aren't the biggest fans of museums, and since we were surprisingly disappointed with the displays - the Barnes Foundation in Merion, PA and the Philadelphia Art Museum far trump the Louvre in my opinion - we just saw the main attractions. The Venus de Milo was our first, which I made sure to see and photograph for Kyra Aman, followed by some similarly stunning statues and a sphinx (the only thing worthwhile in the joke of an Egyptian section). Next was the Mona Lisa, passing the Wings of Victory and the Wedding Feast at Cana on the way. The room that the Mona Lisa is housed in is packed with stunning art, massive canvases, and masterworks in their own right, but they are largely ignored for little Mona. Her beauty is certainly not overrated and, to my delight, she was much bigger than I expected - I was anticipating a painting the size of an average piece of printer paper. Going to see Madame Lisa is almost more worth it to watch the spectacle of camera touting tourists trying to kill each other in order to take a photo (and not even appreciate the art in person), then it is to actually see her with your own two eyes.
The last thing I was itching to see was Hammurabi's Code, you know "an eye for an eye"? On the way to the large, black, etched phallic piece, we got lost among more statues than I ever knew existed.
Tired and over/underwhelmed, we left the Louvre for our home base.
The first stop of the day, after croissants of course, was Notre Dame Cathedral. Outside was a huge British WYD group evangilizing and singing "Jesus Christo, Alleluia" for which another Brazilian group joined them. The cathedral itself was rather underwhelming in comparison to some lesser known churches... and I didn't see any hunchbacks! =(
From Notre Dame, we went to the utterly exceptional and intricate St. Etienne, situated in the shadows of the Pantheon. After some time there, we went to the larger Capitol building-esque Pantheon, which houses some incredibly famous and influential persons, but when faced with a five euro entry fee each, we chose not to bother. Our goal for France was to not spend money on entrance fees. Instead of dropping ten euro to see a building, we went to a supermarket to do what I do best... eat. We spent the same amount as the entrance fee would have been on olives for Damian, cherry tomatoes for me, mozarella, baguette, and a cheap bottle of Bordeaux. We sat in a park next to two homeless men (our only seating option) and ate, feeling guilty and awkward with every delicious bite.
We then made our way to the famous Louvre, for which we got in for free - yay being under twenty-six! Since Damian and I aren't the biggest fans of museums, and since we were surprisingly disappointed with the displays - the Barnes Foundation in Merion, PA and the Philadelphia Art Museum far trump the Louvre in my opinion - we just saw the main attractions. The Venus de Milo was our first, which I made sure to see and photograph for Kyra Aman, followed by some similarly stunning statues and a sphinx (the only thing worthwhile in the joke of an Egyptian section). Next was the Mona Lisa, passing the Wings of Victory and the Wedding Feast at Cana on the way. The room that the Mona Lisa is housed in is packed with stunning art, massive canvases, and masterworks in their own right, but they are largely ignored for little Mona. Her beauty is certainly not overrated and, to my delight, she was much bigger than I expected - I was anticipating a painting the size of an average piece of printer paper. Going to see Madame Lisa is almost more worth it to watch the spectacle of camera touting tourists trying to kill each other in order to take a photo (and not even appreciate the art in person), then it is to actually see her with your own two eyes.
The last thing I was itching to see was Hammurabi's Code, you know "an eye for an eye"? On the way to the large, black, etched phallic piece, we got lost among more statues than I ever knew existed.
Tired and over/underwhelmed, we left the Louvre for our home base.
Fountain of St. Michael the Archangel and Notre Dame
Church of St. Etienne
The Pantheon
The Louvre
Venus de Milo
The Wings of Victory
The Mona Lisa
Guess what they're looking at... Hint: It's above
Hammurabi's Code
Friday, August 12, 2011
Paris Day 2
In an effort to make up for a lazy first day, we decided to hit the streets of Paris early. Our first stop, was our neighboring patisserie, where we gobbled down the most perfect croissants in all of France. Soft on the inside, just the right amount of crunchniess on the outside, flaky, and buttery. Great, now I'm hungry.
Full of energy, we headed to the Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysses. From there, we went to Trocadero to see the Eiffel Tower, before going down to the tower itself. While at the tower, we saw a gypsy in a gorilla outfit directing her band of gypsies to sell things, pick pocket (or so it seemed), and terrorize all who saw on the grass in the shade of the Eiffel Tower in search for a quiet and relaxing time. Nearby is a cool monument that says, "Peace" in several different languages. We watched a kid through a rock at one panel and it subsequently create thousands of little cracks. Fortunately for his parents, the glass did not shatter to the ground... It actually looks cooler his way.
Proving more so that I am no Sacajawea, I tried to get us to either Notre Dame or the Pantheon, yet failed. Instead, I took us through a section filled with embassies, government buildings, and no restaurants (I was starving). We decided to walk back towards the Eiffel Tower, went over to the River Seine, and headed towards a giant dome that we thought might be the Pantheon. It wasn't. I don't know what it was, but the area around it was very nice (see the fountains and obelisk below). Completely unintended, we wound up seeing the National Assembly building, Napoleon's Tomb, the Church of St Mary Magdalene, and the Church of St Augustine, all of which were spectacular. Giving up on finding Notre Dame and the Pantheon, we chose instead to go to Sacre Coeur. Up by Sacre Coeur, we saw a church whose name currently escapes me, the original Sacre Coeur church built in the 1100s called the Church of St Pierre de Montmarte, chic boutiques, epic artists, and the Basilica of Sacre Coeur. Outside the basilica was a World Youth Day group from Brazil singing, "Jesus Christo, Alleluia" (video below). Built on a hill, the property affords amazing views of Paris. Inside the basilica, no photos were permitted, but it was splendid. Go see it. Sacre Coeur and the immediate area is at the top of my Parisian highlights list.
To wrap up the day, we had some delicious Chinese food - real Chinese food > Parisian Chinese food > American Chinese food - and then returned to the hotel.
What a day! So exhausting.
Full of energy, we headed to the Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysses. From there, we went to Trocadero to see the Eiffel Tower, before going down to the tower itself. While at the tower, we saw a gypsy in a gorilla outfit directing her band of gypsies to sell things, pick pocket (or so it seemed), and terrorize all who saw on the grass in the shade of the Eiffel Tower in search for a quiet and relaxing time. Nearby is a cool monument that says, "Peace" in several different languages. We watched a kid through a rock at one panel and it subsequently create thousands of little cracks. Fortunately for his parents, the glass did not shatter to the ground... It actually looks cooler his way.
Proving more so that I am no Sacajawea, I tried to get us to either Notre Dame or the Pantheon, yet failed. Instead, I took us through a section filled with embassies, government buildings, and no restaurants (I was starving). We decided to walk back towards the Eiffel Tower, went over to the River Seine, and headed towards a giant dome that we thought might be the Pantheon. It wasn't. I don't know what it was, but the area around it was very nice (see the fountains and obelisk below). Completely unintended, we wound up seeing the National Assembly building, Napoleon's Tomb, the Church of St Mary Magdalene, and the Church of St Augustine, all of which were spectacular. Giving up on finding Notre Dame and the Pantheon, we chose instead to go to Sacre Coeur. Up by Sacre Coeur, we saw a church whose name currently escapes me, the original Sacre Coeur church built in the 1100s called the Church of St Pierre de Montmarte, chic boutiques, epic artists, and the Basilica of Sacre Coeur. Outside the basilica was a World Youth Day group from Brazil singing, "Jesus Christo, Alleluia" (video below). Built on a hill, the property affords amazing views of Paris. Inside the basilica, no photos were permitted, but it was splendid. Go see it. Sacre Coeur and the immediate area is at the top of my Parisian highlights list.
To wrap up the day, we had some delicious Chinese food - real Chinese food > Parisian Chinese food > American Chinese food - and then returned to the hotel.
What a day! So exhausting.
Arc de Triomphe
Eiffel Tower and Area
Napoleon's Tomb
Government Area
The Seine
Unknown Fountains
The Church of Saint Mary Magdalene
The Church of Saint Augustine
Sacre Coeur and Area
The Church of Saint Pierre de Montmarte
The Basilica
Brazilian WYD Group
View of Paris
The Brazilian WYD Group Performing "Jesus Christo, Alleluia"
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